Which market to choose?
First, tell the three types of market apart. Neighbourhood food markets (Trionfale, Testaccio, Esquilino) are open Monday to Saturday in the morning; you shop there and eat lunch standing up. The farmers' market at the Circus Maximus opens only at weekends. And the Porta Portese flea market takes place only on Sunday. One special case: the Mercato Centrale at Termini station, a food hall open every day until late in the evening.
Campo de' Fiori: the most famous market
The Campo de' Fiori market takes place Monday to Saturday, roughly 7am to 2pm, on the square of the same name in the heart of the historic centre. It is the best known to tourists: fruit and vegetables, flowers, spices, flavoured pasta and bags of herbs as souvenirs. Prices are higher than elsewhere, and the market has turned towards visitors. It is still very photogenic in the morning; in the afternoon the square turns into bar terraces. For a more local experience, prefer the markets below.
Trionfale Market: the biggest, near the Vatican
The Trionfale market, on Via Andrea Doria in Prati, gathers about 270 stalls under one roof. It opens on Monday, Wednesday, Thursday and Saturday from 7am to 2pm, and on Tuesday and Friday until 7pm; it is closed on Sunday. It is a market for residents: meat, fish, cheeses, vegetables and a little textile, with prices often fairer than in the centre. It combines naturally with the Vatican Museums, three minutes away on foot: see our page on the Vatican Museums.
Testaccio Market: Romans' street food
The covered market of Testaccio, open Monday to Saturday from 7am to 3:30pm (closed Sunday), is the favourite of food lovers. Its street-food counters serve sandwiches filled with slow-cooked dishes, supplì, pasta and pizza al taglio. Arrive before noon. The neighbourhood and its trattorias are covered in our Testaccio guide; you will also find Monte dei Cocci, the Pyramid of Cestius and the Non-Catholic Cemetery there.
Nuovo Mercato Esquilino: the whole world near Termini
The Nuovo Mercato Esquilino, on Via Principe Amedeo, is Rome's most cosmopolitan market. Next to Termini station, it sells spices, tropical vegetables, fish and products from Asia, Africa and the Middle East at low prices. It opens Monday to Saturday early in the morning and closes in the afternoon. It is a good place to buy spices to take home; the neighbourhood is described in our Esquilino guide.
Campagna Amica Market at the Circus Maximus: producers and short supply chains
The Campagna Amica market at the Circus Maximus, on Via San Teodoro, sells the produce of more than sixty farms in the region. It is open on Saturday and Sunday from 8am to 3pm, in a covered hall, with "cuochi contadini" serving traditional dishes. It is the handiest stop after the Roman Forum and the Palatine, or before the Aventine Hill and its Orange Garden.
Mercato Centrale: the food hall at Termini
The Mercato Centrale, on Via Giolitti 36, is not a neighbourhood market but a food hall in a wing of Termini station: pizza, burgers, fresh pasta, cheeses, ice cream, street food, with shared tables. It opens every day, roughly 7:30am to 11:30pm (midnight on Friday and Saturday). Prices are higher than in a neighbourhood market, but it is a practical solution when you arrive or leave by train, and a rainy-day lunch. See also our guide to street food in Rome.
Porta Portese: the Sunday flea market
The Porta Portese market, south of Trastevere, is Rome's big flea market: more than a thousand stalls of clothing, second-hand goods, books and records, every Sunday from about 6am to 2pm. Come early, bring cash and watch your belongings. The market may be disrupted by works: check the city's website before you go.
Summary table: Rome's markets
| Market | Area | Days | Hours (approximate) | What to taste or buy |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Campo de' Fiori | Historic centre | Mon-Sat | 7:00-14:00 | Spices, flowers, souvenirs |
| Trionfale | Prati (Vatican) | Mon, Wed, Thu, Sat; Tue and Fri later | 7:00-14:00; Tue and Fri 7:00-19:00 | Meat, cheeses, vegetables |
| Testaccio | Testaccio | Mon-Sat | 7:00-15:30 | Street food, supplì |
| Esquilino | Termini | Mon-Sat | Early morning-about 15:00 | Spices, world produce |
| Campagna Amica | Circus Maximus | Sat-Sun | 8:00-15:00 | Producers' goods |
| Mercato Centrale | Termini station | Every day | 7:30-23:30 (midnight Fri-Sat) | Pizza, street food |
| Porta Portese | Trastevere | Sunday | 6:00-14:00 | Second-hand goods, clothing |
Entry is free in all of these markets.
Practical tips
- Arrive before noon: many stalls pack up from 1pm, and the street-food counters are packed.
- Cash and small notes: cards are increasingly accepted in covered markets, much less at flea markets.
- Weighing and prices: fruit and vegetables are sold by the kilo; ask the price before having it weighed. In very touristy markets, compare before buying.
- Pickpockets: keep your bag closed and your phone in front of you, as everywhere in the city; see our guide to scams to avoid in Rome.
- Taking products home: soft cheeses and fresh produce are subject to your airline's and your destination country's rules; prefer pecorino, oil, pasta and preserves.
Going further
To know what to taste once you are there, read our guide to what to eat in Rome. For eating on the go, see street food in Rome, and for pizza, our guide to pizza in Rome. Markets are also a good tip for a thrifty trip: see the budget for Rome and free things to do in Rome.
