Understanding the Roman aperitivo
Aperitivo is usually taken between 6pm and 9pm. The drink often comes with a few nibbles (crisps, olives, pizzette); some bars offer a fuller buffet, for a higher drink price, and it can then serve as a light dinner. In Rome the ritual is less codified than in Milan: many bars simply serve a drink and nuts, and it is the enoteche (wine bars) that offer boards of cured meats and cheeses.
The price depends on three things: the place (a tourist square costs more than a neighbourhood street), the formula (drink only or buffet) and the seat (at the counter it is cheaper than at a table, and a terrace may add a service charge). Always ask for the menu before sitting down.
What to order
- Aperol Spritz: the orange classic, a bitter aperitif topped up with prosecco and sparkling water, served with an orange slice and plenty of ice.
- Campari Spritz, Hugo and Negroni: more bitter (Campari), floral (Hugo, with elderflower and mint) or stronger (Negroni, made with gin, Campari and red vermouth) variants.
- A glass of wine: in a wine bar, ask for the wine "al calice" (by the glass) of the day; the white wine of Lazio (Frascati) and the Lazio reds are good places to start.
- Non-alcoholic: a beer, a lemonade or a "crodino", a very common alcohol-free aperitif in Italy.
Classic accompaniments are olives, crisps, pizza al taglio in small squares, suppli (fried rice balls), and in the enoteche pecorino romano and local cured meats. Our guide what to eat in Rome details the specialities to try afterwards at dinner.
Where to have aperitivo
Trastevere
This is the liveliest district at the end of the day. The bars cluster around the square of Santa Maria in Trastevere, whose fountain is a meeting point, and in the neighbouring lanes. Prices are medium to high near the square, lower as soon as you move two or three streets away. The district is described in our Trastevere guide.
Campo de' Fiori
After the market closes, Campo de' Fiori turns into a giant terrace, very lively, rather young and noisy. The neighbouring streets (Via dei Cappellari, Via del Pellegrino) have quieter bars.
Piazza Navona and the historic centre
Piazza Navona is beautiful but expensive: you pay for the view of Bernini's fountains. It is better to have a drink in a side street, then return to the square for the evening stroll. For the rest of the evening, see Rome at night.
Other districts
Around Piazza del Popolo, the historic cafés serve aperitivo with a view of the twin churches. In Monti, the wine bars of Via del Boschetto and Largo Ricci are frequented by locals (see Monti). In Testaccio, aperitivo often comes before dinner in a trattoria (see Testaccio).
Aperitivo with a view
Rome has few real rooftops that can be reached without spending a lot; you mainly pay for the panorama. A free alternative is to climb the Janiculum at sunset, after a drink in Trastevere. Another option is to cross Tiber Island to go from one district to another before sitting down.
Practical tips
- The coperto: some places charge a cover per person; it must appear on the menu. See paying in Rome: cards, cash and tipping.
- Counter or table: in Italy, table service (servizio al tavolo) often costs more than at the bar. Ask for the price before sitting down.
- Avoid touts: waiters who call out to you on tourist squares rarely offer the best places.
- Legal age: alcohol is sold from age 18.
- Dinner afterwards: Romans dine around 8:30-9pm. A generous aperitivo can replace the meal; otherwise, keep some room.
- Getting home late: at night take an official white taxi (see scams to avoid in Rome).
Going further
To plan a stay around these places, see Rome in 3 days. To sleep near the lively districts, see where to stay in Rome.
