Basilica of Santa Maria in Trastevere: mosaics and square

Updated on October 5, 2026

The Basilica of Santa Maria in Trastevere opens onto the square of the same name, in the heart of the district: entry is free and people come for the golden apse mosaics made around 1140 and for the six panels by Pietro Cavallini painted below them in 1291. Founded in the 3rd century, it is one of the oldest churches in Rome dedicated to the Virgin; the present building dates mostly from the 12th century. A visit takes 30 to 45 minutes. In the evening the lit façade and the fountain in the square are the district's meeting point: the basilica combines easily with a stroll through Trastevere and an aperitivo.

Highlights

The apse mosaic

Around 1140, under Pope Innocent II, Christ and the Virgin are shown seated on the same throne, which is rare, surrounded by saints and popes, above a frieze of lambs. Below it, Pietro Cavallini signed six mosaic panels on the life of the Virgin in 1291, including the Nativity and the Dormition.

The façade and bell tower

The Romanesque bell tower of the 12th century overlooks the square; the portico, rebuilt in 1702 by Carlo Fontana, carries statues of four popes above its balustrade. On the façade, a frieze of mosaics shows the Virgin and Child surrounded by female saints carrying lamps.

The fountain in the square

In the middle of the square, the fountain with its octagonal basin is a meeting place: people sit on its steps by day, and café terraces surround it in the evening.

The nave and ceiling

Twenty-two ancient granite columns of various origins (the Baths of Caracalla are often cited) separate the three aisles. The gilded coffered ceiling was designed by Domenichino in 1617 and frames an Assumption of the Virgin.

Opening hours and prices

Free entry. According to local sources, the basilica is open every day, roughly from 7:30am to 9pm; in August it closes in the middle of the day. Visits are suspended during Mass.

Practical info

Tips

Hours vary with services and religious feasts: they are posted at the entrance. Clothing that covers shoulders and knees is expected. Binoculars or a phone zoom help to see the apse mosaics in detail, as they are placed high up. No booking is needed.

How to get there

Piazza di Santa Maria in Trastevere, 00153 Rome. There is no metro in the district: take tram 8 from Largo di Torre Argentina to the Belli or Trastevere/Mastai stop, then walk about ten minutes through the lanes. From Campo de' Fiori, allow 15 minutes on foot over Ponte Sisto.