Where to eat near the Spanish Steps and Via Condotti: streets, traps and good addresses

The Piazza di Spagna problem, in short

The square itself, Via Condotti and the streets around the steps are made for visitors who will not come back: the terraces are large, the menus are translated into several languages and prices are higher than in neighbouring streets. The aim is not to avoid everything: a coffee or tea in a historic place is an experience in itself. But for a real lunch, walk two or three streets away, towards Via della Croce, Via Margutta or Via del Babuino.

To understand what you are paying for, also read our guide to scams to avoid in Rome and the one on trattorias and Roman cuisine.

Traps to spot before you sit down

• The coperto. In Rome many restaurants charge a cover per person, even if you do not eat bread. It must appear on the menu: look for the line "coperto" or "pane e coperto" at the bottom of the page.
• Table or counter. A coffee drunk standing at the counter ("al banco") costs less than the same coffee served at a table, and the gap is bigger on a very touristy square. Table prices are displayed in the venues, sometimes on a separate sheet.
• Fish and meat by weight. When a dish is sold "all'etto" (per 100 grams) or "al kg", ask for the weight and the total price before ordering.
• Menus with photos and "tourist" menus. A menu illustrated with photos, waiters who call out to you in the street and a menu in six languages offering carbonara, pizza and tiramisu at any hour are signs of a place that lives off passing trade.
• Offers at the door. A drink or snack "offered" in exchange for stopping at a table is not always free: if you are not sure of the price, politely decline.
• Service. It is sometimes added to the bill; check before leaving a tip. Our guide to money and tipping in Rome details the customs.

Historic cafés: go for the history

The district has several addresses worth a detour for their setting rather than their cooking. The Antico Caffè Greco, founded in 1760 on Via Condotti, is the most famous café in Rome; Babington's Tea Rooms, opened in 1893 at the foot of the steps, has served tea for over a century; the Caffè Canova-Tadolini, on Via del Babuino, occupies the former studio of the sculptor Canova. Have a coffee or a pastry there, expect the drink to cost more than elsewhere, and do not expect a cheap meal. More in our guide to Rome's historic cafés.

Where to eat: the streets to prefer

Via della Croce and Via Frattina

Parallel to Via Condotti, Via della Croce and its surroundings have grocers, bakeries and small counters used by locals and office workers. It is the right place for a quick lunch, a slice of pizza al taglio or a takeaway sandwich, eaten standing or on a bench in the Pincio gardens rather than on the steps (where sitting is forbidden: see the page on Piazza di Spagna).

Via Margutta and Via del Babuino

Via Margutta, the artists' street, is quiet and pleasant for a break; its restaurants cater mostly to a well-off clientele. Via del Babuino, wider, offers more choice, from bars to mid-range restaurants. In both cases, read the menu posted at the entrance before deciding.

The streets between Via del Corso and Trevi

To the east, between Via del Corso and the Trevi Fountain, the small streets have more ordinary trattorias and bars where office workers have lunch. The Trevi Fountain is ten minutes on foot from Piazza di Spagna; our guide to Rome's trattorias explains what to order.

Eating cheaply in the district

• Lunch rather than dinner. Many places offer a dish of the day at midday; check the blackboard.
• Ice cream. Eat gelato while walking, away from Piazza di Spagna if possible: see our best gelaterias in Rome.
• Water. Fill your bottle at the nasoni, the free public fountains.
• A picnic. The Pincio gardens, ten minutes away, and the Villa Borghese are the nicest places to eat a snack bought at a bakery.

Summary table: where to eat around Piazza di Spagna

Going further

For the rest of the visit, read our guide to the Tridente, the walk around Piazza di Spagna and the rules of central Rome.