The Tridente: guide to the district between Piazza di Spagna and Piazza del Popolo

The Tridente at a glance

Three straight streets leave Piazza del Popolo and form the trident that gave the district its name: Via del Babuino to the west, Via del Corso in the middle and Via di Ripetta to the east. They were laid out in the 16th century to guide the pilgrims entering Rome through the northern gate, Porta del Popolo. Between these streets the district is small and flat, except for its upper part on the Pincio hill, home to Villa Medici.

It suits first visits to Rome: the Spanish Steps, the Trevi Fountain and the Pantheon are all within 15 minutes' walk of each other. On the other hand, it is one of the most expensive districts to sleep and eat in: most hotels are upscale and the restaurants on Via Condotti and around the Spanish Steps are expensive for what they serve.

A walking route from south to north

The Spanish Steps and Trinità dei Monti

The Spanish Steps are the natural starting point. The 135-step staircase, built in 1723–1725, climbs to the church of Trinità dei Monti; at the foot, the Barcaccia fountain is attributed to Pietro Bernini. Sitting on the steps is forbidden, and municipal police enforce it. Climb early in the morning: the view over the rooftops from the church terrace is better without the crowds.

At the foot of the steps, the Keats-Shelley House, at number 26 on the square, can be visited in under an hour. At the top, Villa Medici opens its gardens through guided tours; book ahead.

Via Condotti and the luxury streets

Via Condotti and Via del Corso concentrate the big fashion houses, jewellers and shoe shops. Via Condotti runs straight down from the Spanish Steps towards the Tiber. Around it, Via Borgognona, Via Frattina and Via Bocca di Leone are quieter. Even if you do not want to buy, allow twenty minutes to stroll: the windows and façades are worth the detour. The Antico Caffè Greco, founded in 1760 on Via Condotti, is the most famous of the city's historic cafés; see our guide to Rome's historic cafés.

Via Margutta, the artists' street

Parallel to Via del Babuino, Via Margutta is a quiet street lined with studios, galleries and flowered courtyards. Federico Fellini lived at number 110, and number 51 is the apartment in the film "Roman Holiday" (1953) with Audrey Hepburn and Gregory Peck. The courtyards are private: look from the street.

The Ara Pacis and the Mausoleum of Augustus

Further west, near the Tiber, the Ara Pacis is Augustus's Altar of Peace, consecrated in 9 BC and housed in a glass pavilion designed by Richard Meier. Next to it, the Mausoleum of Augustus, the emperor's circular tomb, reopened to the public in 2021: visits are by reservation. The two sites combine easily in an hour and a half.

Piazza del Popolo

Piazza del Popolo closes the Tridente to the north. In the centre stands the obelisk of Ramesses II; at the far end, the twin churches of Santa Maria dei Miracoli and Santa Maria in Montesanto. Santa Maria del Popolo, to the left of the gate, holds two Caravaggio paintings in the Cerasi Chapel (the Conversion of St Paul and the Crucifixion of St Peter) and Raphael's Chigi Chapel; for the painter's other works in the city, read our guide to Caravaggio in Rome. From the square, a staircase climbs to the Pincio terrace, which overlooks the square and faces the sunset over St Peter's. From there, Villa Borghese is a short walk.

A drink with a view

Several hotels in the district have panoramic terraces over the rooftops of Rome, including the Hotel Hassler at the top of the Spanish Steps. We review them in our guide to Rome's rooftops. For something to take home, see what to bring back from Rome.

Getting to and staying in the Tridente

Three stations on metro line A serve the district: Flaminio (Piazza del Popolo), Spagna (Spanish Steps) and Barberini (foot of Via Veneto, 10 minutes' walk). Details of tickets and lines are in our guide to transport in Rome. For where to sleep, compare the districts in where to stay in Rome: the Tridente is central and safe at night, but expensive; the cheapest hotels are rather towards Termini or Monti.

Summary table

Going further

Extend the walk to Villa Borghese or return to the historic centre via Piazza Navona and the Pantheon.