Esquilino at a glance: where, for whom, when
Esquilino is Rome's rione XV, built on one of the seven ancient hills, east of the historic centre. Much of the district dates from the late 19th century, when Rome became the capital of Italy: Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II, its arcades and its large regular apartment blocks were laid out then. Before that, the hill was covered with villas and gardens, including that of the Marquis Palombara.
Today it is Rome's most multicultural district, with many shops and restaurants from Asia, Africa and the Middle East. It suits those staying near the station, those with an hour to spare between trains, and those looking for sites less crowded than the centre. Come in the morning for the museums and the market, and at the end of the day for the basilica. For the station itself, see our guide to Termini station.
Santa Maria Maggiore
The Basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore dominates the north of the district, on Piazza dell'Esquilino. It is one of Rome's four major basilicas, founded in the 5th century, and the only one to have kept its early Christian plan. Entry to the nave is free; the mosaics of the nave and apse are the main attraction. It is about fifteen minutes' walk from Termini, following via Cavour or via Giovanni Giolitti and then via Merulana.
Close by, the Basilica of Santa Prassede hides 9th-century Byzantine mosaics in the Chapel of San Zeno, often overlooked by visitors to Santa Maria Maggiore, which is only a few minutes' walk away.
The Baths of Diocletian and Palazzo Massimo
Opposite the station, on Piazza dei Cinquecento, two sites of the National Roman Museum complement each other. The Baths of Diocletian have a great cloister attributed to Michelangelo, a museum of inscriptions and the Aula Ottagona. Palazzo Massimo, on the other side of the square, displays the frescoes from the Villa of Livia and major ancient sculptures. A single ticket, valid for seven days, gives access to all sites of the National Roman Museum: see the individual pages for the prices checked in October 2026.
They are the ideal choice for a rainy morning next to the station; our guide to Rome on a rainy day suggests others.
The Nuovo Mercato Esquilino and the Alchemical Door
In the heart of the district, the garden of Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II holds the Alchemical Door, the only remnant of the Villa Palombara, with its enigmatic inscriptions and two statues of the god Bes. The visit is free and brief.
Right next to it, the Nuovo Mercato Esquilino, at via Principe Amedeo 184, is Rome's great multicultural market: about 8,000 m² under cover, open Monday to Saturday from 5:00 to 15:00 or 17:00 depending on the day, with spices, vegetables from all over the world and products from Asia and Africa. It has replaced the square's open-air market since 2001.
Where to eat
The district is a good address for inexpensive non-Italian food: Indian, Bangladeshi, Chinese and Ethiopian restaurants, or street-food counters around Piazza Vittorio. For quality Italian food, the Mercato Centrale, in the wing of Termini station, brings together counters of Roman cooking, pizza and ice cream under one roof; it works well with a family or if tastes differ. Avoid the touts' restaurants on via Giovanni Giolitti and around the station, whose prices are often inflated; our guide to the budget in Rome gives average meal prices.
Safety and precautions
The Termini area is a dense crossing point where pickpockets are active, especially in the station, on the metro and on buses. At night, some streets around the station and Piazza Vittorio are not reassuring. Nothing dramatic during the day, but keep your phone and wallet put away, don't leave your bag on a chair and avoid lingering late on the emptiest streets. See our advice on scams to avoid in Rome.
Sleeping near Termini
Esquilino is the most practical district if you arrive late or leave early: station, metro A and B, airport buses, everything is here. Hotels are often cheaper than in the historic centre. The trade-off is a less romantic atmosphere and noisy streets around the station; prefer the streets behind Piazza Vittorio or those around Santa Maria Maggiore. Our guide to where to stay in Rome compares the districts.
Summary table: the stops in Esquilino
| Stop | What you see | Entry | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Baths of Diocletian | Cloister, inscriptions, Aula Ottagona | National Roman Museum single ticket | Closed Mondays |
| Palazzo Massimo | Frescoes from the Villa of Livia, sculptures | National Roman Museum single ticket | Closed Mondays |
| Santa Maria Maggiore | 5th-century basilica, mosaics | Nave free | Mosaics of the nave and apse |
| Santa Prassede | 9th-century Byzantine mosaics | Free | Next to Santa Maria Maggiore |
| Alchemical Door | 17th-century doorway, statues of Bes | Free access | Garden of Piazza Vittorio |
| Nuovo Mercato | Spices, world produce | Free access | Closed Sundays |
Exact prices and hours are on the individual pages; they were checked in October 2026 for the sites of the National Roman Museum.
Around Esquilino
To the south-west, the Monti district is twenty minutes' walk from Termini and offers the lanes-and-cafés atmosphere that Esquilino lacks; the Colosseum is twenty-five minutes on foot. To reach the rest of the city, metro A and B leave from Termini: see our guide to transport in Rome.
Going further
For more free ideas around the station, read our free things to do in Rome. For other markets, see the pages on Campo de' Fiori and the Porta Portese market; for another district, Trastevere.
