San Lorenzo at a glance: where, for whom, when
The district lies east of Termini station, between via Tiburtina, the Aurelian Wall and the Verano cemetery. It was heavily bombed on 19 July 1943, during the Second World War, a memory that remains present in the city. You can see it on foot in half a day, and it suits travellers who want to go out at night without paying city-centre prices. Come in the late afternoon to combine a walk round the district, dinner and a drink.
What to see
The basilica of San Lorenzo fuori le Mura, one of Rome's seven pilgrimage churches, stands next to the Verano cemetery, at the end of via Tiburtina. It holds the tomb of Pope Pius IX, among other things. It was hit in the 1943 bombing and later restored.
The Verano cemetery, one of Rome's great cemeteries, is worth a walk for its funerary monuments and cypress-lined paths.
La Sapienza, Rome's largest university, gives the district its energy: cafés, bookshops, photocopy shops and shared flats. The district also has several contemporary art venues, including the Pastificio Cerere, a former pasta factory turned artists' space. Its streets of graffiti and murals can be explored on foot.
Where to eat and go out
Via dei Volsci and its neighbouring streets concentrate trattorias, pizzerias and bars. Prices are lower than in the centre and the clientele is mostly students. As everywhere in Rome, check the "pane e coperto" line on the menu. For a quick meal, the Mercato Centrale at Termini station brings several counters under one roof. Our guide to Rome at night covers the other nightlife districts.
In the evening the bars of piazza dell'Immacolata and the nearby streets spill onto the pavements; it is lively, sometimes noisy: avoid staying right above them if you go to bed early.
Around San Lorenzo
A few minutes' walk from Termini you find the National Roman Museum – Palazzo Massimo and the Baths of Diocletian, then the Basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore. To the east, Villa Torlonia is reached by bus along via Nomentana. Near piazza Vittorio, the Alchemical Gate is a curiosity to see in passing.
Summary table
| Stop | What you see | Entry |
|---|---|---|
| San Lorenzo fuori le Mura | Pilgrimage basilica | See on site |
| Verano cemetery | Funerary monuments | Free, check hours |
| Via dei Volsci | Trattorias, bars | Free |
| Mercato Centrale | Street food | Free |
| Villa Torlonia | Park and museums | Park free |
Getting to San Lorenzo
The district is about a 15-minute walk from Termini station. Trams 3 and 19 serve it, and several buses leave from Termini; see our guide to getting around Rome for tickets. To stay, read where to stay in Rome.
Going further
For another district of food and alleys, read our guide to Testaccio or Monti. For more original outings, see unusual Rome.
