Unusual Rome at a glance
The places below are spread across the city. You can see two or three per half-day by grouping them by area: the historic centre (Sant'Ignazio, Turtle Fountain, Largo Argentina), the Aventine and Testaccio, the Esquiline and the north of the city (Coppedè, Villa Torlonia). None needs a reservation, unless stated. For more off-the-beaten-track visits, see also underground Rome.
In the historic centre
The church of Sant'Ignazio hides a famous illusion: without the money to build a real dome, the painter Andrea Pozzo painted a fake dome in trompe-l'œil in the 17th century on a stretched canvas. A marble disc in the nave marks the spot where the effect is most convincing.
The Turtle Fountain, in piazza Mattei, is a small 16th-century fountain in the Ghetto district: four young men hold it up, and bronze turtles, added later, climb onto its basin. It is a stone's throw from the Jewish Ghetto.
The Largo Argentina site is a zone of republican temples in the middle of the street, where the assassination of Julius Caesar in 44 BC is traditionally placed; there is also a stray-cat shelter.
On the Aventine and in Testaccio
At the top of the Aventine, the Orange Garden offers a view over the city, and the gate of the Order of Malta, further on, has a keyhole through which you see the dome of St Peter's. At the foot of the hill, the Mouth of Truth is another classic, and Testaccio awaits for lunch.
The Non-Catholic Cemetery, in the shade of the Pyramid of Cestius, is a quiet place where foreign poets rest, including Keats and Shelley.
Alchemy, crypt and fairy tale
The Alchemical Gate, near piazza Vittorio, is the last trace of the Marquis Palombara's villa, where inscriptions and symbols evoke the search for the philosopher's stone. Legend says an alchemist vanished there, leaving gold behind.
The Capuchin Crypt, on via Veneto, is a series of chapels decorated with monks' bones: a strange place, to be visited respectfully.
In the north, the Coppedè district and Villa Torlonia make a day out: one for its fanciful architecture, the other for its Casina delle Civette and its bunker.
Summary table
| Place | What you see | Entry |
|---|---|---|
| Sant'Ignazio | Painted fake dome | Free |
| Turtle Fountain | 16th-century fountain | Free |
| Largo Argentina | Republican temples, cats | See the page |
| Aventine | Garden and keyhole | Free |
| Non-Catholic Cemetery | Poets' graves | See the page |
| Alchemical Gate | Alchemy symbols | Free |
| Capuchin Crypt | Monks' bones | See the page |
| Coppedè | Fanciful architecture | Free |
| Villa Torlonia | Casina delle Civette, bunker | Park free, museums paid |
Going further
For a district off the tourist track, read our guide to San Lorenzo, and for another area full of history, Monti. For a day without spending, see our free things to do in Rome.
