Basilica of Santa Prassede: the mosaics of the Chapel of St Zeno

Updated on October 5, 2026

The Basilica of Santa Prassede, tucked away in a lane a few steps from Santa Maria Maggiore, holds one of the finest groups of Byzantine mosaics in Rome. Rebuilt in the 9th century by Pope Paschal I, it keeps in its Chapel of St Zeno a decoration that is entirely gilded, sometimes called the "garden of paradise". Entry is free and a visit takes 30 to 45 minutes. The church is open every day from 9am to 12:30pm and from 3pm to 6pm; visits are suspended during services.

Highlights

The Chapel of St Zeno

Paschal I had it built as a mausoleum for his mother, Theodora. The vault, walls and ceiling are covered in gold-ground mosaics: Christ held up by four angels, saints and female figures, including Theodora, recognisable by the square veil worn by the living. It is the most important Byzantine monument preserved in Rome.

The nave and triumphal arch

The three-aisled nave is divided by granite columns. The triumphal arch and the apse keep mosaics from the time of Paschal I: the Lamb, the apostles and the heavenly Jerusalem on a gold ground, in a style very close to that of Santa Cecilia in Trastevere.

The well of the martyrs

A porphyry disc in the floor marks, according to tradition, the well where St Praxedes gathered the blood of Christian martyrs. Nearby, a bust of Bishop Santoni is an early work attributed to Bernini.

Opening hours and tickets

Free entry. The Chapel of St Zeno is lit by a coin-operated timer: bring €1 in change to switch on the lights and see the gold of the mosaics. There is no ticket and no booking.

Practical info

Tips

Modest dress is required: shoulders and knees covered (see our guide to what to wear in Rome). The church closes at lunchtime; arrive at 9am or 3pm. It is very quiet, so combine it with the Basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore, 3 minutes' walk away, and with the Monti neighbourhood. Hours may change with services: check with the basilica (October 2026).

How to get there

Via di Santa Prassede 9/a, 00184 Rome. Metro Termini (lines A and B) or Cavour (line B), then 10 minutes on foot; the basilica stands behind the apse of Santa Maria Maggiore.