The Castelli Romani at a glance
The "Roman castles" are not castles: the name comes from the feudal fortresses around which the towns grew. They are spread over the slopes of the Colli Albani massif, between 300 and 700 metres above sea level, around two crater lakes, Lake Albano and Lake Nemi. The air is cooler than in the city, which explains the villas built here by popes, cardinals and the Roman nobility.
People come for three things: villas and palaces (Frascati, Castel Gandolfo, Ariccia), lake and forest landscapes (Albano, Nemi, Monte Cavo), and the table: Frascati white wine, porchetta, Nemi strawberries. None of these towns is a "major sight" in the sense of the Colosseum: this is a relaxing excursion, to be done without rushing.
Frascati: villas, cantine and porchetta
Frascati is the easiest to reach and the most complete for a first visit. The gardens of Villa Aldobrandini and its water theatre overlook the town; the centre has several cantine where you can have lunch with a porchetta sandwich and a glass of white wine. The town is served by the FL4 railway line from Roma Termini, in about thirty minutes. See the page for the garden opening days, which vary.
Castel Gandolfo and Lake Albano
Castel Gandolfo is the popes' summer residence. The Papal Palace is visited with a Vatican Museums ticket, on a calendar adjusted to the pope's presence; the gardens of the Pontifical Villas are visited separately. The town overlooks Lake Albano, where you can walk along the shore. The FL4 train gets there from Roma Termini in a little over forty minutes: the station is a few hundred metres from the centre, up a slope.
Lake Nemi, Ariccia and the other towns
Beyond Frascati and Castel Gandolfo, three stops are worth the detour if you have time or a car:
- Nemi: a village above the lake of the same name, known for its wild strawberries and viewpoints. The Museum of Roman Ships, devoted to Emperor Caligula's ships, is a classic for history lovers; check its hours.
- Ariccia: the capital of porchetta, with its great monumental bridge and its Chigi palace; fraschette, simple inns where you eat with the house wine, are its speciality.
- Grottaferrata: its famous Greek-rite abbey, founded in the 11th century, is a few kilometres from Frascati.
Public transport there is less frequent than to Frascati: Cotral buses link these villages, but the excursion is simpler by car or with a driver.
One-day itineraries
- Easy day, no car: FL4 train to Frascati in the morning (Villa Aldobrandini gardens, porchetta lunch), then back to the station and a train to Castel Gandolfo for the late afternoon and the lake, before returning to Rome.
- Day by car: Frascati in the morning, then Ariccia or Nemi for lunch, then Lake Albano at the end of the day. If you leave early, you can add Grottaferrata.
- Half day: a single town, Frascati or Castel Gandolfo, with a return to Rome in the late afternoon.
At weekends, trains and restaurants are busier, but the Castel Gandolfo palace opens later into the afternoon; on weekdays, many places are quieter but close early. Always check the hours before you leave.
Combining with the Appian Way and the aqueducts
The Castelli Romani lie in the same direction as the south-east of the city: on the way back, or the day before, you can combine the Appian Way, the catacombs of Rome and the Aqueducts Park for a full day devoted to south-east Rome. Keep the first half of the day for the Appian Way (booking advised for the catacombs) and the rest for one of the Castelli towns.
Summary table
| Stop | For whom | Access from Rome | Key points |
|---|---|---|---|
| Frascati | Everyone, first excursion | FL4 train from Termini, about thirty minutes | Villa Aldobrandini gardens; cantine |
| Castel Gandolfo | Fans of the papacy and the lake | FL4 train from Termini, about 41-45 min | Papal Palace on an adjusted calendar |
| Nemi, Ariccia, Grottaferrata | With a car or driver | Car or Cotral bus | Strawberries, porchetta, abbey |
Getting ready
Bring walking shoes: the streets are sloping and often cobbled. For regional FL4 train tickets, see our guide to transport in Rome. For another excursion idea, read our guide to Florence from Rome, and for a more ambitious day outside the city, our guide to excursions from Rome. Garden lovers should also read our guide to the most beautiful gardens around Rome.
Going further
For another trip out of Rome, see our guide to Pompeii from Rome, and for your first days in the city, our guide Rome in 3 days.
