Since 2012 the Nuovo Mercato di Testaccio has occupied a large set of covered pavilions on Via Galvani, at the foot of Monte Testaccio, in the old working-class district of the slaughterhouses. It is the covered market that food-loving Romans prefer: fruit and vegetables, fishmongers, cheesemongers, bakers and above all street-food counters where you eat standing up, with filled rolls of slow-cooked dishes, supplì, pasta or pizza al taglio. Entry is free; allow an hour to an hour and a half to walk around and have lunch.
Highlights
The market pavilions
The stalls are grouped in blocks around bright aisles. The complex replaces the old market of Piazza Testaccio, moved in 2012; archaeological remains found during construction can be seen at the entrance.
The street-food counters
This is where you eat at the market: rolls filled with slow-cooked Roman-style meat, crisp supplì, the pasta of the day, pizza al taglio. Dishes are served to order, often standing; look at what the regulars order.
Produce from Lazio
Sheep's cheeses, cured meats, olive oil, seasonal vegetables (artichokes in spring, puntarelle in winter). For ideas of dishes to try, see "What to eat in Rome".
The neighbourhood around
After the market, climb Monte Testaccio, an artificial hill made of broken ancient amphorae, or walk on to the Pyramid of Cestius and the Non-Catholic Cemetery, ten minutes away on foot.
Practical info
Tips
Come before noon: from 1pm queues grow longer and some counters have run out of the day's dishes. There are few seats, so eat standing or take away. Prices are not always displayed: ask before you order. Keep your bag and phone in front of you in the aisles. For a proper sit-down meal, the trattorias of Testaccio are covered in our guide to the district.
How to get there
Via Galvani, 00153 Rome (Testaccio district). Metro line B, Piramide station, then about 10 to 15 minutes on foot. Several buses and tram 3 also serve the district.
Opening hours
Nearby
See on the map →
Comments
No comments yet.