Baroque Rome: in the footsteps of Bernini and Borromini

Bernini and Borromini in brief

Bernini (1598-1680) is the sculptor of the popes: he shaped the decoration of St Peter's, fountains and palaces, and he knew how to convey emotion through marble. Borromini (1599-1667) is his contemporary and rival: more austere in his life, bolder in his plans, he composes with curves, ovals and overhead light. Roman Baroque is the meeting of these two manners, in the service of the Counter-Reformation papacy.

For a traveller, the essentials are simple: Bernini is to be watched for his staging, Borromini for his space. The two meet in one neighbourhood, near the Quirinal, where the churches are small and free.

Bernini's works to see

The Ecstasy of Saint Teresa

This is the sculptor's most famous work in Rome after St Peter's. In the Cornaro Chapel of the church of Santa Maria della Vittoria, the saint is pierced in the heart by an angel, in front of golden rays; on the sides, the patron's family watches the scene from sculpted boxes. The church opens every day, in two sessions, morning and afternoon; entry is free.

St Peter's and its square

St Peter's Basilica is Bernini's great project: the huge bronze baldacchino above the main altar, and the oval colonnade around the square, two arms opened towards the crowd. Go into the basilica for the baldacchino; the square can be visited freely.

Piazza Navona and the Fountain of the Four Rivers

At the centre of Piazza Navona, the Fountain of the Four Rivers (1651) combines an obelisk and four figures representing the great rivers of the four continents known at the time. Right next to it, the church of Sant'Agnese in Agone shows the façade designed by Borromini, facing Bernini's fountain: the rivalry is visible at a glance.

The Borghese Gallery

The Borghese Gallery holds Bernini's early sculptures, such as Apollo and Daphne and the Rape of Proserpina, astonishingly lifelike. The visit is by reservation, with a time slot: book before you leave.

The elephant of the Minerva

In front of Santa Maria sopra Minerva, a small marble elephant carries an obelisk, designed by Bernini and carved by one of his pupils in 1667. It is one of the most charming curiosities in the centre, a few steps from the Pantheon.

Borromini, the architect of impossible plans

San Carlino

This is Borromini's masterpiece, with its façade completed in 1665-1667. Inside San Carlo alle Quattro Fontane, an oval dome with geometric coffers rises above a plan made of curves. Entry is free, but the church is tiny and open only a few hours; on Saturday it is closed.

The staircases of Palazzo Barberini

Palazzo Barberini saw both rivals at work: Bernini's square staircase on the left, the oval spiral staircase attributed to Borromini on the right. It is one of the few places where you can compare their two styles in the same spot. The ticket also covers the picture gallery, including Pietro da Cortona's ceiling.

The perspective of Palazzo Spada

In the Spada Gallery, the perspective gallery that Borromini designed is an optical trick: it looks several tens of metres long, but is much shorter.

Sant'Ivo alla Sapienza

Near Piazza Navona, the church of Sant'Ivo alla Sapienza, by Borromini, is crowned by a spiral lantern. Its interior opens only at certain times: check the hours before you make the trip.

A walking route: half a day between the Quirinal and Navona

1. Morning: Santa Maria della Vittoria (10 minutes from Termini or the Repubblica metro), then San Carlo alle Quattro Fontane, 10 minutes' walk away. Respect the opening hours of these two churches.
2. Late morning: Palazzo Barberini, a few minutes away, for the staircases and the paintings; allow two hours.
3. Afternoon: Trevi Fountain and the Pantheon, then Piazza Navona and Sant'Agnese, for the comparison between Bernini and Borromini.

If needed, our article on the Trevi and Quirinal neighbourhood details the streets between these stops.

Summary table

Further reading

For the free churches to see during the same morning, see our guide to free things to do in Rome. To organise your days, read Rome in 3 days and getting around Rome.