Sant'Agnese in Agone closes the west side of Piazza Navona, facing Bernini's Fountain of the Four Rivers. Building began in 1652 for Pope Innocent X Pamphilj, first under Girolamo and Carlo Rainaldi, then largely reworked by Francesco Borromini between 1653 and 1657: his concave façade, framed by two bell towers, lets the dome rise very high. The Greek-cross interior is smaller than you might expect but rich in marble and gilding. Entry is free and a visit takes 20 to 30 minutes. The hours come from secondary sources (the Rome tourist board refers visitors to the church for up-to-date hours): check them before you go.
Highlights
The façade
Borromini hollows the façade into a concave curve, with a single order of pilasters and columns, so that the dome and the bell towers stand out. To see it whole, step back towards the Fountain of the Four Rivers.
The dome
Supported by eight columns, it is decorated with a fresco by Ciro Ferri (the glory of Paradise); the pendentives are by Baciccia. Look up from the centre of the nave.
The underground oratory
On the lower levels, a medieval oratory holds the altar of the "miracle of Saint Agnes's hair", a marble relief by Alessandro Algardi. Tradition places the martyrdom of the young Agnes here, under Diocletian, among the arches of the ancient Stadium of Domitian, whose outline Piazza Navona follows.
The Pamphilj crypt
To the left of the high altar, the crypt holds the tomb of Pope Innocent X and members of his family. You see it on the guided visit.
Practical info
Tips
- Free entry to the church; a guided visit of the crypt and underground levels is offered by tour operators (paid ticket, check the price on the booking page before buying). The church is a place of worship: dress modestly (shoulders and knees covered). During Mass, tourist visits may be restricted: check the notice at the entrance. To place the church in the Bernini–Borromini rivalry, read Baroque Rome: in the footsteps of Bernini and Borromini.
How to get there
Piazza Navona, 00186 Rome. There is no metro station on the square: the nearest is Spagna (line A), a 20-minute walk; buses on Corso Vittorio Emanuele II or Corso del Rinascimento drop you 3 to 5 minutes away. The church faces Piazza Navona and is an 8-minute walk from the Pantheon.
Opening hours
Nearby
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