Case Romane del Celio: the ancient houses beneath Santi Giovanni e Paolo

Updated on October 5, 2026

Beneath the Basilica of Santi Giovanni e Paolo, on the Caelian Hill ten minutes' walk from the Colosseum, the Case Romane del Celio form a maze of some twenty underground rooms with preserved frescoes and floors, dated from the 1st to the 4th century. They show how a district of homes, shops and baths became a luxurious residence and then a Christian place of worship. Entry costs €8 (€6 reduced); it is one of the least crowded underground sites in central Rome. The visit takes about 45 minutes to an hour, from 10am to 4pm, with last entry an hour before closing. It is self-guided, with an optional audio guide (€5 in Italian and English).

Highlights

The frescoes of the house

On brick walls, painted decoration of lozenges, pediments and geometric motifs in red and green has survived eighteen centuries. The floors and walls show how the decoration changed from the 1st to the 4th century.

The painted rooms of the domus

In the richest part, vaulted ceilings carry scrolls and painted scenes in colours that are still legible. The lighting is low: let your eyes adjust.

The Clivus Scauri

The ancient street that climbed the Caelian is still lined with brick buttress arches that the church walls rest on. Shops and storerooms opened onto this road, the old axis of the hill.

The confessio

According to tradition, John and Paul, two officers in Constantine's household, lived, were martyred and were buried here in the 4th century; the basilica was built over their house. This room is the only part of the route not accessible to wheelchairs.

Opening hours and tickets

Full price €8; reduced €6; with online booking, a €2 fee is added. Audio guide €5 in Italian and English. Food, photography, bulky luggage and animals are not allowed.

Practical info

Tips

Check the opening days before you come: the operator (CoopCulture) lists daily opening from 10am to 4pm, while the Rome tourist board says it is closed on Tuesdays and Thursdays; the online booking shows the dates actually open. The site is also closed on 1 January and 25 December. It is cool below ground: bring a layer. Combine it with the Basilica of San Clemente, another stack of ancient layers 10 minutes away on foot, the Colosseum and the neighbouring garden of the Villa Celimontana. See also our guide to underground Rome.

How to get there

Clivo di Scauro, 00184 Rome, beneath the Basilica of Santi Giovanni e Paolo (Piazza dei Santi Giovanni e Paolo). Metro Colosseo or Circo Massimo (line B), then 10 minutes on foot; tram 3.

Opening hours

Best: Weekdays from 10am

Every day 10:00-16:00 (last entry 15:00; opening days to be confirmed: closed Tuesday and Thursday according to the Rome tourist board; closed 1 January and 25 December)